Our delighted customer returned from a diving holiday at Siladen Resort & Spa, in Manado, with some very special memories indeed. Here he describes for us the evening 140 Green Tutles hatched and made an epic journey into the protect waters of the Bunaken National Marine Park: 

Who wouldn't love to witness a turtle hatching in person?

On track & Heading off into the sea...

"Everyone was finishing up their evening meal when Mike and Nathalie went to check the turtle nests. There were signs of movement! When this message came, the restaurant soon emptied as everyone left for the turtle nests.

"Finally, one little head poked out and the baby turtle was soon heading rapidly down a specially-prepared track to the sea with vocal support from guests.

"The second and third turtles emerged slowly. The second appearing very tired, probably because the rain had compacted the sand on top of the nest making it hard work to dig itself out. The third turtle headed off, but kept trying to escape from the track by climbing the side wall. After a little guidance it too was on track and heading off into the sea.

"While the second baby turtle rested, it was soon joined by more and finally a rush as most of the 140 baby turtles emerged and headed off for the water in a big group. After about 20 minutes more it was all over and all 140 baby turtles were heading off to life at sea.

"Hard to believe but in thirty years probably only one of them will come back as an adult to lay eggs on the same beach.

"When Mike and Nathalie were digging out the nest the following day, to make room for a new batch of eggs, one final baby turtle was found. It was very strong and it too then made its way into the sea."

To find out more,  call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit Silden Resport & Spa

Villa Michael is a lovely, newly refurbished Villa offering comfortable holiday accommodation. Directly on the seafront, this property boasts breath-taking, unobstructed 180 degree views across Qawra bay.

Guests can step out of the Villa and straight onto the seafront promenade leading down to the shoreline, perfect for swimming and snorkeling. The property is three minutes’ walk from the Malta National Aquarium and popular evening hotspot Cafe Del Mar. It is also just three minutes’ from Qawra point dive site and the enclosed swimmers zone.

Malta’s calm warm seas make for excellent visibility and superb conditions for tackling everything from diving courses, to underwater photography, to wreck and deep diving. One great advantage of diving in Malta is that being such a small island, it is easy to get around. Most of the dive sites are shore-based, easily accessible by road at many points around the coast. Malta is well known for offering plenty of wreck diving opportunities.

Villa Michael is an attractive holiday villa with three double bedrooms comfortably accommodating up to six people, making it ideal for small groups. All bedrooms have ensuite shower rooms with single bed or double beds, according to your request.  All of the bedrooms have new ensuite shower rooms.

The Villa features a large living space with full sea views, as well as a dining room. The newly fitted kitchen is equipped with an oven, electric hobs, large fridge and freezer, microwave oven , dolce gusto coffee capsule machine and dishwasher. The kitchen leads out onto a spacious outdoor terrace & BBQ area overlooking the sea. The roof top sun terrace has unobstructed 180 degree sea views.

To find out more, contact our friendly team on 01353 659999, or visit: Villa Michael

Here John shares some of the many highlights from his recent Cocos Island liveaboard trip aboard Okeanos Aggressor II:

All Good Things…

There's a saying that goes along the lines of good things coming to those who wait, and patience is the key when it comes to diving Cocos. It's nothing like the Red Sea, where you fly out one day and are in the water by 10am the next. Cocos involves a flight across to the Atlantic and at least one overnight in San Jose, Costa Rica, followed by a two  hour bus ride to the coast.

The boat (in this case Okeanos Aggressor II) then departs from the port of Puntaranas, That's when the waiting really starts, as it's  then a 36 hour sail out to the island that's 340 miles out into the Pacific Ocean. You arrive at night, so it's up to 46 hours before you get in the water. 

So, is it worth the wait I hear you ask? You bet it is! In a documentary made a few years ago, Cocos was named 'The Island of the Sharks' and for good reason, as we found out over the next 7 days diving. In fact we started to get an idea of how ‘sharky’ things were going to be on the check dive. Of course they are normally nice easy dives and never usually the most exciting locations.

The briefing had informed us that we would roll off the RIB into 5 metres of water and max out at about 16 metres. Doesn't sound that exciting does it? But that soon changed when the first two guys hit the water, they bobbed straight back up shouting 'Tiger Shark - right under the boat!' So we all entered the water as quickly as possible, but of course with all the commotion, it had disappeared. Not to worry as there would be more later in the week. We saw loads of Whitetips and even a few Hammerheads - not bad for a check dive!  

It may surprise you to know that we only dived eight different sites during our week at the island and there are a lot of similarities between them, but we never got bored. All our dives were spent looking for sharks, which wasn't hard, as they found us. Out of 24 dives we saw loads of Whitetips on every single dive. The other RIB divers were even lucky enough to witness some mating, not many people have that in their logbook! We did three night dives and the Whitetips attracted by the lights of our torches, like moths around a flame. Things certainly got a bit frenzied, as they used the light to help them hunt.

Mostly the diving involves descending down with the wall of one of the smaller islands to your back, or to the top of a sea mount and find the cleaner fish at the numerous cleaning stations. Here the sharks come in to be cleaned and by holding onto the rocks and keeping very still, they come nice and close. There are some reasonable currents, but they are not too much bother, as you very rarely swim against them. It pays to keep your eyes darting in all directions though, as a few times lovely Whale Sharks would swim above you, a sleek Galapagos Shark would check you out, or a curious Tiger Shark would pass quite close. I suppose I should mention that my buddy had a Tiger Shark pass by within a few feet and I didn't see it as I was looking the other way, not my greatest moment in diving.  

But there is one undoubted star of the show at Cocos, and that's the Hammerheads. Hundreds and hundreds of Scalloped Hammerheads. Occasionally in bigger schools, but always about, either singly or in groups of 15 or 20. All hanging around to come in to the cleaning stations and that's where you get your chance to see them up close and personal. They come in until they are in just the right spot,  then tip their bodies back and hover in the current as the cleaner fish rush in. When done they often swim really close. Having one after the other swim within a few feet of you is certainly worth the effort to get to Cocos. Impressively, we saw Hammerheads on every one of the 21 day dives. 

Watching the different behaviours of the various shark species is what keeps you enthralled for the whole week. Going back to the same dive sites a few times was not an issue, as every time something different would happen and even when we did have a chance to go around to the south of the island, most people decided to stay and dive Manuelita or Dirty Rock again. If you do want to see some smaller critters, there were some very friendly Frogfish that posed quite nicely for the photographers.  But even when we were looking for them, we had to make a quick change of plan when a huge Whale Shark circled us twice. 

Eventually of course, we had to turn for home and the forest covered island with the sun setting behind certainly made a great sight, as it slowly shrank from view. On the return journey there was plenty of time to discuss the week with our companions and start the editing of the numerous photos and hours of video. The Okeanos Aggressor II and its crew looked after us very well. The dive guides were great, the crew very attentive and we were well looked after with some excellent food.  

So finally, the question as to whether Cocos should be on your dive wish list, it's most definitely a 'yes' to that one!

To find out more,  call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit Okeanos Aggressor II

World's Best Wreck Diving Destinations:

Rust lovers. Metalheads. They go by many names, but they all have one thing in common: their enduring fascination with underwater history. Yes; rusting metal. But what an array of history can be found beneath the waves…

A destination bound to excite all wreck lovers is Truk Lagoon – one of the most famous concentrations of wrecks in the world. Final resting place for an entire Japanese fleet sunk in 1944, the wrecks include a submarine, jeeps, tanks and fighter planes. Truk Lagoon is a dream destination and one which all wreck lovers should experience.

Malta – one of Regaldive’s most popular destinations - is only a three hour flight from the UK and boasts a large number of wrecks to enjoy. Lying at 14m in Valetta harbour is HMS Maori: a British destroyer sunk in 1942. Another famous Maltese wreck is the Bristol Blenheim Bomber. One of five known wrecks of its kind, the engine and wings are intact at 42m and make a memorable dive for experienced divers. Another wreck for the more experienced diver is the Imperial Eagle; a former ferry and the sister ship to Cousteau’s Calypso. 

An Egyptian liveaboard is the place to be if you want to visit the best wrecks the Red Sea can offer. Regaldive offer itineraries including the most famous Red Sea wrecks: the Dunraven at Ras Mohamed, the Rosalie Moller and the most famous wreck of them all; the mighty Thistlegorm. 

In the early 1960s, Jacques Cousteau placed Sudan firmly in the psyche of divers with his experiments in underwater living. The remains of his Conshelf II “village” provide a fascinating window into this unique chapter of diving history. Directly out of Port Sudan lies the Umbria: an Italian cargo ship deliberately scuppered at the beginning of WWII to avoid it falling into British hands. The holds are easily penetrated and the cargo (ranging from ammunition and military vehicles to wine) is still there to be explored. Fans of the Red Sea seeking a new challenge should ask Regaldive for details on a Sudan liveaboard.

Known as the “wreck capital of the Caribbean” Grenada is recognised for its exceptional range of wrecks, and is renowned for one wreck in particular: the Bianca C - a 200m liner that caught fire and sank in 1961. With her deck sitting at 35m, the wreck supports a large amount of marine life and has numerous points of interest, including a swimming pool and the bridge. At the bow divers can see large pelagics including schools of barracuda and tuna, as well as passing eagle and manta rays.

The Veronica L, a highly photogenic wreck that makes a fantastic night dive, is festooned with colourful soft corals, sponges and marine life. The open hold, crane and surrounds of this 25m cargo ship are home to seahorses, moray eels, frogfish and octopus. 

Divers visiting Busuanga Island, Philippines are ideally placed to dive the Second World War Japanese wrecks of Coron Bay: some of the best preserved in the world. 

There is nothing quite like the feeling of sitting on a boat knowing that you are about to dive one of the most famous wrecks sites in the world. Each site has its own unique beauty, is mostly intact, within recreational diving limits and full of history. Happy diving, metalheads!

For help with planning your next wreck diving adventure, call us on 01353 659999 or send us an email.

On my recent trip to Marsa Alam I also spent a very nice day with the team at Oasis Dive Resort. A location that's all about making the most of the great diving in the area, plus comfortable accommodation and good food. A tour of the rooms showed them all to be spacious and all with nice views over the sea. 

The diving options include their lovely house reef, or trips by road to dive sites to the north and south. The minibus pulls up to a beach with all your dive kit already laid out on a big rug to keep the sand away. This type of diving is perfect for those that don't  want to be out on a boat all  day, or on and off a RIB. A leisurely kit up and you can walk straight into the water. 

So, the first dive of the day was a very special one for me, my 500th dive. I learnt to dive in May 2002 and was immediately hooked. To say my life started to revolve around diving is an understatement, then even more so when I joined Regaldive in 2012. Certainly learning to dive was one of the best decisions I ever made.

The dive at Oasis was in a bay with reef either side and sea grass in the middle. They do have a resident Dugong there and I was hoping he would show up to help me celebrate my special dive, but I think the party invitation must have got lost in the post. I was lucky enough to see the one that lives up near Port Ghalib on dive 499 though, so close enough for my first Dugong. There was a very big Green Turtle munching away on the sea grass though and he posed nicely for some pictures and video. 

Then we finished with a pleasant meander around the pretty reefs nearby to check out all of the usual Red Sea life. Those pesky Pipefish never stay still long enough for you to get a decent picture, I often wonder how some people get those close up pictures that you see. 

So, it was an enjoyable end to a great week in the Red Sea and here's looking forward to the next 500 dives!

The Oasis Dive Resort is an intimate, appealing hotel with a rustic and friendly feel. Ideally suited for divers and for those seeking tranquillity, it has a rural location on a long beach just north of Marsa Alam. The hotel has 49 chalets arranged around the main building in the form of a pretty Bedouin village with small alleyways and winding steps of fossilized coral stone. The resort stands out with its unique architecture and intimate ambience. The views from the terraces are fantastic.

WORLDWIDE OPTIONS FOR DIVING WITH SHARKS include:

GUADALUPE ISLAND

Dive to 30 feet and go face to face with great white sharks! Guadalupe Island is a volcanic island 150 miles off the west coast of Baja California and it outperforms every other great white shark destination with shark-seeing consistency and beautiful diving conditions. 

Great white shark encounters at Guadalupe Island are nothing short of spectacular. It’s the best destination in the world for calm, clear water and a consistently high probability of multiple shark encounters. The bay itself is home to over 200 recognised individuals, ranging from 12 to 19 feet long. At times, guests have seen as many as nine sharks on one dive!

SOCORRO ISLANDS

The wild, remote and exhilarating Socorro Islands, Mexico are famous for their big animal encounters. Divers will see many species of shark, including Hammerheads, Whitetips, Silvertips, Silkies, Tiger & Galapagos Sharks. Whale sharks can be found between November - December and late April - May. 

The area is also famous for close encounters with the Giant Pacific Manta Ray, which can grow to 22 feet across. The Mantas seek out divers to interact with and play in their exhaled bubbles. There’s little doubt that this is the best location for the closest Manta interactions.  

SOUTH AFRICA

If you want some great shark action, what could be better than the shark hotspots of South Africa and Mozambique? Although there's always plenty to see, including Hammerheads, Tigers, Blacktips and Bulls, May is the time that the Ragged Tooth Sharks take up residence on Aliwal Shoals. A shark to impress your non-diving friends, as with their mouth full of big teeth, they look far scarier than they actually are. ‘Raggies’ usually stay until at least the end of November, so now's the time to plan your visit.

THE MALDIVES

The Maldives is a popular location for seeing a few varieties of shark, most commonly Whitetips and Grey Reef Sharks. Although the Whitetips are usually very calm and lethargic during the day, they certainly get a bit more active at night. Often seen darting around the reef, trying to beat each other to the next unsuspecting fish to snack on. 

Our guests returning from Maldives Liveaboards are giving enthusiastic reports from of a very interesting night dive they took part in. Many of them have greatly enjoyed doing a night dive with Nurse Sharks. Although one of the most docile of sharks, it turns into a very exhilarating experience when you get 40 to 50 Nurse Sharks swarming all around you! Just hang onto your gear and prepare for the odd nudge.   

THE BAHAMAS

The Bahamas are justifiably famous for their shark diving. Some sharks can be seen very close and personal, mainly Caribbean Reef Sharks, Nurse Sharks and Lemon Sharks, but others such as Bull Sharks, Hammerheads and even Oceanic Whitetips can all be found, with the waters of Nassau and the Exuma Cays being the most easily accessible areas. 

A famous location that is worth a visit in June, July and August is Tiger beach. So called because of the numbers of Tiger sharks that turn up in the warm shallow waters at that time. Known for coming in nice and close, some of the individual sharks, such as Emma, are famous the world over. With years of experience the operators that visit the area will provide you with an experience that you will have difficulty finding anywhere else.    

SUDAN

Many of Sudan’s varied dive sites hold an almost mythical status with divers from around the world. Sudan’s coastal waters are also recognised as one of the best places in the world for Shark enthusiasts to encounter schools of scalloped hammerheads, alongside many other species of shark. 

Our colleague Nigel gave us a taste of the shark action from his recent trip to Sudan and told us: "we were joined by a huge school of hammerhead sharks: above us, below us, in the distance, right next to us: they were everywhere. We were all trying to look in every direction at once. When we got back on board my partner said it had been 'raining hammerhead sharks'. We all knew what she meant."

THE GALAPAGOS

The seas surrounding the Galapagos support a large concentration of the marine life that makes these islands such a superb dive destination. Certainly no dive itinerary to the Galapagos is complete without a visit to the remote outposts of Wolf & Darwin to the north. Schools of hammerheads, as well as dolphins and rays make these islands a real highlight for divers. The whale shark aggregation occurs in the warmer water surrounding these islands. Many other shark species also make regular appearances, including species that you are unlikely to see elsewhere, including the Galapagos Shark. Although Hammerheads are seen year round, the biggest aggregations are usually in the Autumn. 

THE RED SEA

The Red Sea has always been good for sharks, but the last couple of years have been exceptional, especially  on the 'Simply the Best' itinerary. Maybe it's because there are less divers about. We are hearing feedback such as "saw hammerheads on every dive at Daedalus" and "great to get so close to so many Oceanic Whitetips" from those on our Red Sea Liveaboard trips. The best times for these encounters now seems to be starting a bit earlier too, around June, and running right through to November. 

COCOS ISLAND

A few years ago Cocos Island was christened ‘The Island of the Sharks’ by documentary makers, and with very good reason. This lush, green, uninhabited island, 340 miles from the Pacific coast of Costa Rica, boasts numerous species of shark, including Whitetips (on every dive!), Tigers, Whale Sharks, Silkies and Galapagos Sharks. 

But the biggest draw here is the Hammerheads that come into the numerous cleaning stations, allowing easy, close up viewing. Also they can often be seen schooling in their tens or even hundreds, so keep your fingers crossed for that amazing experience. 

The UNESCO designated World Heritage Site certainly holds its place at the pinnacle of the world’s best shark diving locations.  

To find out more about our shark diving locations, call our friendly team on 01353 659999.

A favourite diving destination with Regaldive guests, the Maldives is a picture-postcard paradise. Stunningly beautiful white sand beaches complement the exhilarating underwater realm that offers some of the finest diving in the world. Adrenaline-charged drifts, amazing quantities of colourful fish and chance encounters with pelagics are the order of the day here.

Angaga Resort - A Firm Favourite with Guests

Located in the middle of South Ari atoll, Angaga Resort enjoys the combined benefits of a fine house reef, a beautiful lagoon and beach, a shady interior of palm trees and frangipani plants. The resort offers a high standard of accommodation and facilities and remains a firm favourite with Regaldive guests. The atmosphere is best described as discreet, quiet and natural.

The resort has 90 guest rooms in total, including beach bungalows, water bungalows and superior water bungalows. The Beach Bungalows are Maldivian style with thatched roofs and are built in small clusters around the edge of the island. 

The 20 Water Bungalows feature a canopied four poster double bed, private deck, bath & shower and direct access into the sea. There are also 20 Superior Water Bungalows. These larger Bungalows are attractively decorated, providing great comfort for the ultimate stay on Angaga.

Superior Beach Bungalows are available at great prices, with 7 night packages starting at only £1,874pp. This includes: flights, sea plane transfers and 7 night’s accommodation on a twin share, half board basis.

If you'd like to take advantage of these great savings, call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit: Angaga Resort

House Reef at Angaga

The house reef at Angaga is rewarding for divers and snorkelers alike. There are four entry points onto the reef, which wraps around the entire island. Supporting plenty of soft coral and marine life, the house reef provides access to unlimited diving for experienced divers, dropping to 35 metres at its deepest point.

Boat Diving from Angaga

Angaga’s location offers access to some of the best dive sites on both the western and eastern sides of South Ari atoll. The island enjoys fabulous diving through the South West Monsoon. During the North East Monsoon access to Madivaru point is both regular and easy. Madivaru is renowned for consistently attracting large numbers of Manta Rays to its gently sloping walls and is a real highlight.

Thulhagiri Resort - Ideal for Low-Key Relaxation

Thulhagiri is a small island located in the middle of North Male atoll, just 25 minutes by speedboat from Male and the airport. Palm trees shade the interior and there is a fine beach leading to a large sheltered lagoon. The southern end of North Male atoll offers a concentration of excellent dive sites, which are all accessible from the island. 

Thulhagiri Resort is small and low-key, offering good value. Dive sites on either side of the atoll ensure good diving year round from a very well managed dive base. With its convenient location, this island also makes an excellent choice for twin centre holidays, with the option of combining another island or a liveaboard.

The resort has 69 detached and semi-detached Standard Deluxe bungalows built around the fringe of the island in the tree line, overlooking the beach and sea. There are also some are water bungalows available. Water villas have a canopied four poster double bed and a private sun deck with access into the sea. The bathroom has a bath and separate shower. 

Standard Deluxe Bungalows are available at great prices, with 7 night packages starting at only £1,571pp. This includes: flights, speed boat transfers and 7 night’s accommodation on a twin share, half board basis.

If you'd like to take advantage of these great savings, call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit: Thulhagiri Resort

House Reef at Thulhagiri

The beautiful and healthy house has three main access points for diving, offering a big variety of options. Two of these entrance points are marked with ropes leading from the shallow lagoon out to the reef edge, while the third is very close to the edge of the reef, accessible via a staircase from the water bungalow jetty. A small and colourful thila (Thulhagiri Kuda Thila) just west of the island can be reached starting from the house reef, but can also be dived by boat.

Boat Diving from Thulhagiri

Thulhagiri’s location allows for its dive boats to access some of the best dive sites on both the southwestern and southeastern sides of North Male atoll making it an excellent diving option year round. There are well over 30 dive sites that are regularly visited by the island's dive boats.

The range of dive sites available from the island offers great options for all divers, from novice right through to advanced. Highlights include dive sites Barracuda Giri (aka. Okobe thila), Paradise Rock (aka. Nassimo thila) or H.P. Reef (aka. Rainbow reef) for soft corals; Sunlight Thila or Lankan Reef for Mantas, and Aquarium or Furana for schools of fish and pelagic encounters.

Maldives Liveaboards and Twin Centre Options

We offer a wide choice of liveaboard vessels in the Maldives, catering to a diverse range of budgets and diving needs. Many Regaldive guests choose to combine a land-based stay with a Maldives Liveaboard trip, or opt for a twin centre land-based stay, to really make the most of the world class diving on offer. To find out more, call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit: Maldives Liveaboards

Raja Laut means 'King of the Sea' and stepping on board this schooner inspired yacht built from tropical hardwood, you will experience a truly regal sense of sailing the Indonesian seas; freedom, style and comfort. 

Taking only 12 divers, this liveaboard is ideal for small groups. The attention to detail and level of service from the seven crew and three dive guides will aim to leave guests wanting to return time and time again. A strong team will see Emperor teaming up with Andrew Laughlin, who has spent the last 10 years building and managing Indonesian liveaboards and has over 30 years' experience in the diving and yachting industry. He is also a PADI Master Instructor and Yacht Master.

This beautiful, traditional sailing yacht was built in south Sulawesi in 2005. She has spent much of the last 12 years sailing around Southeast Asia for private charter and will be Emperor Divers' introductory boat in the magical Indonesian archipelago.

Likely encounters include mantas, hammerhead sharks, whale sharks and pygmy seahorses, as well as Komodo Dragons on land. Indonesia offers riches for all and is a truly magical place.

To find out more, call our friendly team on 01353 659999, or visit: Emperor Raja Laut

Nigel reports:

I had wanted to do this trip for years, but the timing was never quite right. Therefore when my partner and I finally booked our 14-night trip, the prospect of diving unchartered or rarely dived sites in Sudan, finally seeing hammerhead sharks, visiting the wreck of the Umbria, Cousteau’s Conshelf II underwater project and Sanganeb lighthouse kept me in daydreams for months.

The day finally arrived and we set off early (very early!) from our home in Derby to Gatwick. Never a pleasant journey, but we gritted our teeth and kept all thoughts positive with talk of the impending trip.

Following an uneventful flight to Marsa Alam airport we were transferred to Marina Lodge, where we would spend our first night before boarding the mighty Royal Evolution the following evening. During the evening we met up with some other Brits who had flown in on the same flight and shared a few beers and some banter about everyone’s salty diving tales.

The following day was spent mooching around Port Ghalib, just passing the time until we would be collected by the Royal Evolution team and transferred to the boat.

Boarding the boat was a little more complicated than the usual liveaboard process on account of the boat leaving Egyptian waters. Therefore, guests couldn’t initially put anything in their cabins, as we needed to take everything through the customs office at the port and have our passports stamped.

Because of the speed that officialdom moves in certain parts of the world there was a lot of hanging around while we waited until the Customs Officials arrived and were ready to process our departures. The waiting time was spent by chatting to the other guests and Dive Guides, and finalising the admin for the trip, including paying for the Sudanese visa and fuel supplement. 

The Officials finally arrived and 24 tired guests marched single file to the customs office and took it in turns to push their luggage through the detectors, have their passport stamped and then drag it all back to the boat. Where, at last we could unpack, set up our dive gear and look forward to the trip ahead…

Apart from a handful of Brits, the guests came from Europe, the US and Russia; all with a good level of diving ability and experience.

The first day we moored at St Johns (still in Egyptian waters) and split into three groups (one group per Dive Guide) and did two checkout dives. It wasn’t Sudan yet, but at least we were all diving, and it gave us a chance to make any last minute adjustments to our setups and get the measure of the other divers in our group.

Two dives down and it was time to leave Egyptian waters and head for Sudan. Because of the distance involved, it meant sailing for the rest of the day and overnight, before passing into Sudanese waters early the following morning.

I remember waking up the following day and heading up to the top deck to see what Sudan looked like. A beautiful day greeted me with a stunning view of crystal clear waters with the occasional reef kissing the surface.

We soon passed a larger reef with some small fishing boats nearby and the rusting hulk of a ship that had inadvertently sailed too close. There was plenty of talk amongst us all about finally being in Sudanese waters and what to expect from the trip. Next stop was Port Sudan for more Customs admin before the trip really started…

My expectations and the reality of Port Sudan couldn’t have been further apart. I expected a shack office, a few boats moored up and a couple of Officials with guns. The reality is that Port Sudan can be seen from miles away, looming in the distance, with supply roads and infrastructure running along the coastline long before we arrived at the port.

Before the boat finally moored up in the area reserved for smaller marine vessels, we passed huge dry docks, cranes, container ships, a power plant and warehouses stretching our as far as the eye can see.

Finally mooring up, we waited for the Sudanese Officials to board the boat and stamp our passports. The boat refuelled and we all took the opportunity to take photos from the boat (we are not allowed on land) and watch as the life of Port Sudan passed by. We saw a modern infrastructure, brand new buildings and roads, modern cars and locals watching us with the same level of curiosity and fascination as we were watching them. 

Once the boat was fully fuelled and all passports were stamped it was time to kit up for our first dive in Sudan: the wreck of the Umbria, lying just outside Port Sudan.

The Umbria was a WWII Italian transport vessel that was scuppered at the outset of the war by the Captain in order to prevent its cargo from falling into Allied hands. Despite the natural deterioration of the ship and its cargo, it is relatively intact, unlike the Thistlegorm which has fallen victim to far too many divers visiting it down the years.

In the holds divers can see piles of bullets, shells, bomb-making equipment, hundreds of wine bottles (sadly all empty!) and even three Fiat cars. We did two dives on the Umbria, one in the afternoon and a particularly memorable one at dusk that gave the boat a spectacular ghostly silhouette in the gloom.

Excitement onboard was high as we all discussed our experience of the wreck, shared photos and looked forward to the next 11 days diving in Sudan…

There would be far more diving adventures over the next 11 days, and it would take just as long in describing how simply astonishing the dives were. However, to give you a flavour of how stunning the diving in Sudan is, here are some of my highlights:

My first experience of seeing a hammerhead shark was a huge let down. I had dreamed of diving with hammerhead sharks for years, and when the moment finally came it was a solitary shark. Sure, I was excited, but I felt short changed. Where were the schools that I had dreamed about? On the following dive my question was answered: we hit 30m, came off the reef and looked out into the blue. The Dive Guide started signalling hammerheads and we were joined by a huge school of hammerhead sharks: above us, below us, in the distance, right next to us: they were everywhere. We were all trying to look in every direction at once. When we got back on board my partner said it had been raining hammerhead sharks. We all knew what she meant. We dived with huge schools of hammerheads on many other occasions during the trip, and never got tired of it. Surely it’s impossible to tire of diving with huge schools of hammerheads?

At the end of an afternoon dive we were joined at the back of the boat by a dozen silky sharks. These inquisitive sharks kept swimming off and then back again, checking the divers out. Even more surreal was the night dive at the same site: a bit spooky as the silkies appeared out of the darkness as the torch beam hit them.

The self-obsessed turtle that swam right up to a diver’s camera as he was filming her. Whichever way he turned she turned with him, making sure that she could still see her reflection in the camera lens.

A night dive on Conshelf II – the underwater structures built by Jacques Cousteau in order to test how living under pressure affects humans. Diving around SCUBA history felt like we were diving in the footsteps (finsteps? finkicks?) of giants. 

Visiting the massive lighthouse at Sanganeb that dominates the skyline for miles. It’s quite an ascent to the top, but the views were stunning and well worth the effort. The colours of the reef were breathtaking.

At this point I should give an honourable mention and huge thanks to the Dive Guides and Crew: all of whom went beyond the call of duty to make the trip a memorable one. Their knowledge, attention to detail, sense of fun, level of service, and kindness created the mood on the boat which we all benefited from as divers and guests. 

The food was delicious and plentiful, with three main meals each day, plus tasty snacks waiting for us when we returned from the mid-afternoon dive. A bottle of red wine was provided for each table for the evening meal, with some of us (ahem!) benefitting from our neighbours not liking red wine. I’m not a huge fan, but was happy to compromise…

A delicious last night meal and celebrations were followed by the trip video: Roberto - one of the Dive Guides and resident videographer  - took turns to dive with each of the three groups during the trip and compiled footage for each group to take home (supplements apply). So we all gathered together in the lounge to watch each group's movie and share in the banter of some of the funnier moments.

It all finished far too soon back at Port Ghalib the following morning, when we passed through Egyptian customs once more, before returning to our hotel for the day to relax and buy some souvenirs, before flying out that evening.

There was so much more that happened, so much more to tell, but if you really want to find out more about Royal Evolution and Sudan do give Nigel a call, or better still book a trip to go yourself. What are you waiting for???

Nigel enjoyed a liveabaord trip from aboard Royal Evolution, a 39m vessel designed by divers, for divers. Royal Evolution was the first boat with permission to operate this itinerary to Sudan departing from Egypt. An extremely stable vessel, Royal Evolution is well equipped for the distance. This high level of comfort, combined with access to the best that the Red Sea has to offer, makes this a compelling choice for divers. Royal Evolution offers roomy sun decks with plenty of space and choice of seating for relaxing, in or out of the sun. 

To find out more,  call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit Royal Evolution

With special thanks to Caroline Albrecht for the great photographs from this trip.

Built in Germany, the cargo vessel Atlantik was built just before the start of WW2. She was refitted in 1950 and extended and she was renamed the Persia II in 1964.

In the 1980s she moved to St Vincent to run inter-island cargo – this continued until recently, when her pumps failed and she took on water in rough weather off Grenada earlier this year. All crew members were rescued by the Coast Guard, but the vessel sank seven miles off the south coast.

Aquanauts Grenada recently sent a team to find and dive the Persia II wreck, after following an oil trail and using sonar. The Aquanauts team reports that she lies upright in 35m with marine life already moving in. So, the wreck is now part of Grenada’s chain of Atlantic wrecks, lying in a location where the currents attract rays, nurse sharks and other pelagics.

Regaldive offers packages starting at £999pp for seven nights’ twin-share B&B at True Blue Bay Resort - Grenada including transfers and flights with British Airways from London Gatwick. Our diving packages with Aquanauts start from £232pp for six dives.

To find out more,  call our friendly team on 01353 659999 or visit Diving in Grenada